NORTHERN ARIZONA 48 HOURS IN PINETOP-LAKESIDE Pinetop-Lakeside enjoys a well-earned reputation as a summer escape, but when cooler weather arrives, this mountain town shows a whole different side of its personality. Hawley Lake, Pinetop-Lakeside Arrive: EVENING Check into a cabin with a hot tub and wood-burning fireplace at Whispering Pines Resort to experience the area at its rustic best. Just a 15-minute walk away, Mexican restaurant Los Corrales serves up saucy enchiladas and other dinner staples in a colorful setting. EVENING Head back to town for dinner at this historic Charlie Clark’s Steakhouse , a ruggedly Western-themed joint with mesquite-broiled steaks and chicken, prime rib and seafood. the nearby Hawley Lake Store offers boat rentals and snacks. AFTERNOON In addition to outdoor fun, Pinetop-Lakeside also offers a vibrant, quirky shopping scene. Explore The Burly Bear for furniture and décor — and plenty of bear-themed furnishings, naturally. While you’re here, you might even catch the owner creating custom wood carvings. On your way out, grab a bite at The Bistro at Annie’s . This quaint restaurant and garden serves up sandwiches, paninis, soup and salads for lunch six days a week (closed Sundays). Day 2 MORNING Hawley Lake isn’t just picturesque; it’s also an angler’s dream. Pack a picnic breakfast, find a piece of open shore, and hook anything from bass, crappie and walleye to trout. (Pick up a White Mountain Apache Tribal fishing permit at Hon-Dah store or one of the local convenience stores.) For visitors looking to get on the water, Day 1 MORNING Fuel up at nearby Darbi’s Cafe , serving up comfort foods like thick-cut caramel apple French toast and gooey cinnamon rolls. Then stroll the easy one-mile paved Woodland Lake Loop , accessible for hikers of all ages and skill levels. AFTERNOON Sip a post-hike craft beer at Pinetop Brewing Company before heading off the beaten path to Fort Apache Historic Park . The story of the fort is a complicated one involving the U.S. Calvary moving into an Apache village and later enlisting members of the tribe as the first Apache scouts. Self-guided walking tours at Fort Apache take you back in time, with nearly 30 buildings dating from the 1870s through the 1930s. Finish the tour with a visit to the Kinishba Ruins , about five miles east of the park. The ruins are the site of an ancient village once home to the ancestors of the Hopi and Zuni people. Kinishba Ruins, Pinetop-Lakeside 56 VISITARIZONA.COM ANNE GROEBNER (ALL PHOTOS)