extended overnight trips but use more fuel and require some skill to drive and maneuver. Most adventurers will want either a powerboat or Jet Skis (towed behind your houseboat) to venture into the myriad side canyons. Two boat rental companies, based at Wahweap and Antelope Point Marinas, offer pilot/captain service to help drive and anchor the houseboats, and while a bit pricey, that peace of mind is invaluable, especially in low-water conditions. You can sleep the night before your trip and rent your choice of watercraft at Wahweap with Lake Powell Vacations. Their houseboats are 46 to 75 feet in length, with a choice of bedrooms and amenities that will surprise you. Antelope Point Marina lies a few miles west of Wahweap, farther up lake and offers an array of quality houseboats (59 feet to 77 feet), pontoon and deck boats. Don’t forget a kayak or two, a cheaper and quieter way to experience the peace and quiet of the emerging Glen Canyon riparian ecosystem. REBIRTH My favorite place on Lake Powell is the perfectly named Cathedral in the Desert. Never easy or fast to reach, being 69 miles up lake from the dam, (Mile 0), it’s tucked into a side canyon of the Escalante River tributary. My winter pilgrimage goal was to learn if the formerly flooded chasm is once again walkable, as it was in Powell’s day. Cathedral in the Desert lives again! I ascended a dune while looking left to the wispy waterfall and shallow clear pool below. Standing in open shade under a 200-foot curved ceiling, the revelatory vision of a reborn piece of paradise filled my eyes and heart with joy and wonder. Here Cathedral in the Desert, Lake Powell Padre Bay, Lake Powell 32 VISITARIZONA.COM