REGIONS: CENTRAL PAUL BUNYAN SCENIC BYWAY By Aegor Ray The smooth, winding road is embraced on either side by trees, their leaves patterned in striking green, warm ochre and vivid crimson shades. Just up ahead, Trout Lake stretches expansively underneath a sky that can only be described as impossibly blue. The dance of light and water dazzles my eyes as the breeze, tinged with a phantom of chill, refreshes both my lungs and my spirit. Uppgaard Wildlife Management Area in Crow Wing County, a 110-acre tract of rolling hills, wildflower gardens and small marshes. A short walk led us to a serene lookout over a pond, where a pair of swans nestled along the shore. Between cattails and lily pads, the water reflected the swans’ THE WATER elegant necks, the midday sunlight and the iridescent fall REFLECTED foliage surrounding us. After a couple days exploring idyllic townships along the ELEGANT NECKS, the byway, my diverse Minnesotan family headed to northwest THE MIDDAY Minnesota for a brief venture into Bemidji, the midway point SUNLIGHT AND between the White Earth, Red THE IRIDESCENT Lake and Leech Lake Indian nations. Our Paul Bunyan-FALL FOLIAGE. inspired pilgrimage was complete when we reached the park on My long weekend Lake Bemidji that boasted giant trip on the Paul Bunyan Scenic Byway was statues of the town’s lumberjack hero and his autumn in Minnesota distilled. 54 miles of famous blue ox. Photo opportunities abound paved county roads loop through Pequot here! The park also features a playground Lakes , Breezy Point , Crosslake , Manhattan designed to be accessible and inclusive to Beach and Pine River to connect swaths of children with disabilities. state forest, bike trails, wildlife management areas, parks and gardens. Each town the We took our time exploring the Bemidji byway weaves through boasts a unique array Sculpture Walk , which features 37 public of antique shops, handicraft markets, bait and sculptures throughout downtown. Our favorite tackle suppliers, rustic lodging and leisurely was the 9-foot-tall statue of Shaynowishkung resorts. Like its folk hero namesake, the (“He Who Rattles”) in Library Park. Nicknamed Paul Bunyan Scenic Byway is defined by Chief Bemidji, Shaynowishkung was an Ojibwe its stories and quintessentially Central leader, peacemaker and the first permanent Minnesota landscape. settler in Bemidji. His great-great grandson Donny Headbird was instrumental in designing On a pristine late fall morning, I packed this special commemorative work, and the a picnic and took a relaxing drive with my resulting statue is a beautiful bronze casting family, hoping to spot a park or lookout to that honors indigenous stewardship of the wander into for a long lunch. We settled on region we now call Minnesota. FALL ON THE THE SWANS’ Chief Bemidji statue Photo by Weston Holland Tamarac Bog in Bemidji State Park 66 | EXPLORE MINNESOTA .COM