COME TO LIFE / Ancient Treasures SIDETRIPS Now that you have an appreciation of the can-yons and cliffs that made Mesa Verde Country famous, take a drive on one of Colorado’s most fascinating scenic byways. San Juan Skyway is a 236-mile loop called the “most beautiful drive in America” for good reason. The road tours around southwestern Colorado’s rich landscape, starting in Cortez and passing through the idyllic mountain towns of Mancos, Durango, Silverton, Ouray, Ridgway, Telluride, Rico and Dolores. In the fall, this drive is lined with golden aspens. In Dolores , fishers will find haven on McPhee Reservoir and the Dolores River, a popular whitewater rafting route that runs through town. McPhee is the second largest body of water in Colorado, with 50 miles of shoreline in pinyon, juniper and sagebrush country. Doc’s Marina offers boats and kayak rentals, snacks, ice and tackle. End the day at Dolores River Brewery for local suds and wood-fired pizza or Sutcliffe Vineyards west of Cortez, recently recognized among the country’s top wine producers by Food & Wine Magazine . Or head to Mancos , named one of the Best Small Towns to Visit in 2016 by Smithsonian Mag-azine and one of the newest Certified Colorado Creative Districts, a community that traces its roots back to the ranching, farming and timber industries that started back in the 1870s. Today Mancos boasts little shops brimming with unique gifts and wonderful art. Local artisans craft everything from beer and rum to leather goods and handmade Western hats. The state’s most southwestern town, Towaoc is the headquarters of the Ute Mountain Ute Indian Reservation. Attractions include the Ute Moun-tain Tribal Park, which features both Ancestral Puebloan and Ute rock art and dwellings, as well as native guides that lead guests on an interpre-tive journey through Ute and Ancestral Puebloan history. The tribe also operates Ute Mountain Casino, Hotel & Resort (including an RV park, campground, travel center and restaurant). DAY 2 Travel the 116-mile Trail of the Ancients , America’s only National Scenic Byway dedicated solely to archaeology. From Cortez , wind past Mesa Verde to Ute Mountain Tribal Park (4) . Ute guides help you explore the cul-ture, architecture and art of the Ute and Ancestral Puebloan people. From here, pass Four Corners Monument on your way to Hovenweep National Monument ’s (5) round and square towers, some of which you can visit via short hike. Visit at night for stargazing in this International Dark Sky Park, including ranger-led stargazing programs in the spring and summer. Fit in a visit to the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument . Stop first at the Anasazi Heritage Center , a superb archaeological museum that introduces the monument, the family that discovered the cliff dwellings, and cultures native to the region. Then head to Lowry Pueblo . This ancient pueblo site within the monument features 40 rooms and eight circular kivas. Take advantage of Cortez’s growing status as a hub for mountain bikers. The area’s high-desert canyons, mesas and 600 miles of singletrack trails, as well as slick-rock and old-growth forest trails, bring opportunities for year-round rides. East of town on Hwy. 160, Phil’s World is a fast and fun singletrack trail main-tained by a local bike club, and the Geer Park opened recently with 10.9 additional miles of intermediate biking within Cortez city limits. If ATVs are your thing, the Dolores Public Lands Office can direct you to the best trails, including the Aspen Loop Trail, a multipurpose, 39-mile loop trail constructed by San Juan National Forest and the Four Corners Trail Club. Travel through old logging roads, streams, aspen groves and spruce forests. 5 STAY & PLAY OPTIONS Cortez (page 192), Dolores (page 194), Mancos (page 201), Mesa Verde National Park (page 201), Towaoc (page 205) 170 / COLORADO.COM CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: UTE MOUNTAIN TRIBAL PARK, MILES/MATT INDEN; SAN JUAN SKYWAY, ERIC WUNROW; HOVENWEEP NATIONAL MONUMENT, EFRAÍN M. PADRÓ. 4