FULL-STEAM AHEAD HOT ATTRACTIONS (LITERALLY) My alarm buzzed at 4:45 a.m. the next morn-ing, and we wandered in the darkness to watch the sunrise at our first attraction: West Thumb Geyser Basin , where geysers line the shore of Yellowstone Lake . As we drove up to the area and stepped onto the carefully crafted board-walks, steam billowed from pools of all sizes. Some were holes smaller than a basketball, while others were larger than our Honda CR-V. We oohed and ahhed at the quietly bubbling pools of aqua-colored water and watched the sun rise above the lake like a glowing lemon. Our first taste of Yellowstone’s volcanic identity was blissful — and we had so much more to see. As the National Park Service explains, “At the heart of Yellowstone’s past, present and future lies volcanism.” The park’s geysers, boiling pools and bubbling mud pots are the result of the mammoth magma chamber underneath the area. And while the last volcanic eruption occurred more than 600,000 years ago, the hot magma under Yellowstone’s caldera still powers the park’s geothermal activity. Our next stop was the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone , created by the movement of colos-sal rocks preceding the eruption of Yellowstone caldera and erosion by the Yellowstone River, which rumbles through the canyon’s heart and down two waterfalls. We drove straight to South Rim Drive to park and hike down Uncle Tom’s Trail , named after Tom Richardson, who led visitors more than 500 steps down the canyon in the late 1890s to picnic at the base of the Lower Falls . While the trail was reconstructed to include just more than 300 steps and there’s no picnic at the bottom, those who brave the less-than-half-mile descent are rewarded with a spectacular vista of the falls. The canyon’s walls — which are flecked with wispy cascades, emerald-colored swaths of moss and shrubs that appeared to be growing out of rocks — are a beautiful sight on the hike down. And when we reached the bottom, we could truly feel the power of the falls with all of our senses. “This is my favorite part of Yellowstone so far,” Gavin said, as we gazed at the permanent rain-bow below the cascading water. I agreed. RIGHT ON TIME As we entered the asymmetrical building, our eyes were immediately captivated by the floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace and intricately carved wooden railings and beams. The inn looked like it blossomed from the surrounding landscape. After we satisfied our bellies with burgers and trout cakes in the lounge, it was time to see Yel-lowstone’s most popular attraction. The Upper Geyser Basin , home to Old Faithful, has more than 150 geysers, hot springs and fumaroles (openings in the earth’s crust that emit steam and other gases). A few minutes before Old Faithful’s estimated eruption time, we snagged a spot on one of the benches surrounding the feature. And like clockwork, Old Faithful’s vent began to shoot boiling-hot water more than 100 feet into the air. As the day went on, I was consistently amazed by Yellowstone’s well-preserved beauty — and how accessible everything was. The easy-to-nav-igate roads, convenient parking areas and per-fectly placed boardwalks make the national park a prime example of a happy marriage between nature and modern engineering. From athletically opposed hikers (me) and wilderness-savvy explorers (Gavin) to families with kids of all ages to world-traveling retirees, Yellowstone is a destination that caters to all types of travelers. NATURE’S CANVAS PLANNING TIPS Bring Layers: We visited in early June, when forecasts predicted temperatures in the low 70s. Pack rain gear and a jacket for the cooler mornings and evenings and the occasional thunderstorm. 1 Get Choosy: If you have limited time, choose one of the park’s major areas to conquer; we chose the Old Faithful, Canyon Village and Lake Village areas. Next time, we plan to camp in the north -ern portion of the park and inves -tigate Lamar Valley, Norris Geyser Basin and the limestone-draped Mammoth Hot Springs terraces. 2 Disconnect: While there is cell service in some of Yellow -stone’s developed areas and Wi-Fi for purchase in hotel rooms, con -nections to the outside world are fairly limited. Bring your own enter-tainment (we played card games); rooms in the park’s lodges and hotels don’t have TVs or radios. 3 At Midway Geyser Basin , our next stop, I found my favorite Yellowstone attraction: the Grand Prismatic Spring . The tie-dyed beauty is the largest hot spring in the U.S. and credits its brilliant colors to microscopic colonies of pigmented bacteria that thrive around the edges of the spring’s mineral-rich water. From the boardwalk, I could see Grand Prismatic Spring’s bright orange, yellow and blue colors peek through the clouds of steam that continuously rose from it (“A free facial,” commented the woman standing next to me). After ogling the spring and the bubbling azure-blue waters of the adjacent Excelsior Geyser for more than an hour, Gavin and I stopped at a shady spot on the banks of the nearby Firehole River for a picnic. Skilled fly fishermen arched their lines in the waterway, known for its feisty population of brown, rainbow and brook trout, as we devoured salads and sandwiches purchased from a general store in the Old Faithful area. Hayden Valley, on our way back to Grant Village, was the perfect place to end our day. Framed by forested hills, the valley was speckled with bison, who keep the amazingly green area impeccably mowed. Meanwhile, trumpeter swans mingled in a river, and a duo of elk savored a grassy dinner next to the road. When to Go: While peak season is typically mid-July through August, we suggest visiting in June and September. Daybreak, when it’s less crowded, is an ideal time to see some of Yellowstone’s most popular attrac -tions. Plus, the lighting is excellent for snapping photos and chances to spot wildlife are heightened. 4 Like Clockwork: While there are more than 200 active gey -sers in Yellowstone, the eruptions of only five are predicted regularly (Castle, Grand, Daisy, Riverside and Old Faithful); anticipated eruption times are posted in the lobby of the Old Faithful Inn. 5 By early afternoon, Yellowstone bustled with visitors. My stomach began to rumble, so we made our way toward the Old Faithful Inn for lunch. Housed in the world’s largest log struc-ture, the National Historic Landmark was built in 1904 with local logs and stone. Keep Your Eyes Open: Yellowstone is a wild-life-watching haven. We probably saw more than 100 free-roaming bison; some were even sunning next to geysers! Bring your binoc-ulars, and keep your eyes peeled for more than 300 species of birds, bears, bald eagles, gray wolves, elk and much more. However, it’s important to stay at least 25 yards away from bison and other animals and at least 100 yards away from bears and wolves for the safety of animals and visitors alike. 6 TravelWyoming.com 17