2019-12-09 01:24:10
The San Juan Mountains of southwest Colorado encompasses such a variety of settings in one view: rolling hills of ranch country, plunging canyons and peaks so jagged it feels like they were carved yesterday. Find these scenes and more in Montrose, Ouray, Ridgway and Telluride. DAY 1 The Gunnison River took thousands of years to carve the area’s most identifiable feature — the 48-mile-long Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (2) near Montrose. Start at the Elk Creek Visitor Center, located on Blue Mesa Reservoir, Colorado’s largest body of water. Winds captured by flat-topped buttes make for prime sailing conditions. Anglers, too, find deep water filled with kokanee salmon and mackinaw trout. And boaters freely roam more than 41,000 acres. The Morrow Point Boat Tour is worth the 232 steps down to the boat landing. Float on the 40-foot pontoon to the foot of 1,000-foot cliffs. Landlubbers stick to the 4-mile Curecanti Creek Trail (1), which passes through forests as it drops 800 feet below the canyon’s rim. Visit the park itself: The astonishingly steep walls of the canyon rise more than 2,000 vertical feet from the river. The cliffs expose 2-billion-year-old black metamorphic rock and are so sheer that hiking into the canyon is an ambitious undertaking. Instead, take a relatively flat walk from the South Rim Visitor Center. Peer across the chasm to Colorado’s tallest cliff, Painted Wall — you’ll know it by the white gashes through the otherwise pitch-black stone. The park is also an International Dark-Sky Park, with stargazing ops that will blow you away year-round but are especially vivid in the winter. Montrose is a gateway to biking, hiking, rafting, hunting and fishing. As a basecamp for exploring the area, you’ll be charmed by the Old West feel yet surprised by modern eateries and shops. Visit the Water Sports Park on the Uncompahgre River for kayaking, tubing and swimming. West of Montrose, explore the Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area’s 200,000 acres of red-rock canyon country or the Buzzard Gulch Trail System. In town, the newly expanded Ute Indian Museum connects the past with contemporary Ute life and culture. DAY 2 Nicknamed the “Switzerland of America,” Ouray sits in a narrow valley with the towering San Juan Mountains on three sides — one reason it’s considered ground zero for Jeep touring. An extensive and incredibly scenic network of old mining roads is another. Many of the town’s original Victorian structures have been lovingly restored to retain the town’s original charm. Check out nearby Ridgway Area Trails’ 40 miles of mountain-bike and hiking trails. Or for something more intense, the epic Old Twin Peaks Trail takes you to a 360-degree overlook. Ouray’s Western Slope Rides has a handy adventure shuttle that will get you to a hiking trailhead, backcountry mountain biking, winter ice-climbing expeditions and more. Another easy option is Ouray County Watersports’, which will deliver kayaks or stand-up paddleboards to your lodging for use on the area’s waters, including nearby Ridgway State Park. Stop first to pick up picnic provisions at the locally focused Ouray Meat & Cheese Market. In the winter, the town lives up to its other nickname — the Ice-Climbing Capital of Colorado — when the Ouray Ice Park (3) opens more than 200 routes to spiked adventures. Those visiting in the summer will have to make do at Basecamp Bouldering, a drop-in climbing gym with programs for all ages. Afterward, enjoy a truly restorative experience in the enormous Ouray Hot Springs Pool, which holds more than a million gallons of naturally heated, crystal-clear mineral water. Ouray is also a stop along the Colorado Spirits Trail and SW Colorado Crafted Beverages Tour, so keep an eye out for locally distilled spirits and brews. Stop at True Grit Cafe (5) in Ridgway, built to honor the original “True Grit” movie starring John Wayne, which was filmed here in 1969. Ridgway is also a Certified Colorado Creative District and a stop along the Colorado Creative Corridor, home to artisans, fests, photo studios, fiber-arts makers, galleries, concerts in the park and the Sherbino Theater. The town is a jumping-off point to splendid views of Mount Sneffels and the Dallas Divide — one of our most photographed alpine scenes. Detour to Orvis Hot Springs’ pools and take in views of the dramatic San Juans. DAY 3 It’s easy to fall head over heels for Telluride’s Victorian-era homes and beautiful box canyon. But jaw-dropping views are just the start of what this outdoors and culture hot spot has to offer. Millennia after the Ute Indians settled in the craggy San Juans, prospectors struck gold and silver here. By 1896, the town had 10,000 residents and its very own hospital — now the beautifully renovated Telluride Historical Museum. Start here for an overview of Telluride’s evolution from gritty mining town to 1970s hippie haven to ski mecca. Then mosey the streets to vintage Victorians and brownstones. Twelve blocks along Colorado Avenue comprise a National Historic Landmark District, including the site where notorious outlaw Butch Cassidy robbed his first bank in 1889. Telluride can truly celebrate its uniqueness, where all shops, restaurants and hotels are independently owned and Colorado minded. And there’s no need for a car in Telluride — between the gondola and Galloping Goose bus in town, getting around is a (free) snap! Pick up the serene River Trail, which turns into the Idarado Legacy Trail at the town park. In the summer, the park bustles with music festivals. From here, take the easy 2.5-mile path to the base of Bridal Veil Falls — Colorado’s highest free-falling waterfall. For a hidden gem, seek out Little Hawaii, a semi-secret hike off Bear Creek Falls trail. This spot along the river is formed by a giant rock wall with water cascading into a tranquil pool. Ask a local for specifics on getting there. Or get a bird’s-eye view of the densely forested San Miguel River Valley during a ride on the gondola, which leaves from downtown on a 13-minute journey to Mountain Village’s shops, restaurants and activities, including a new bike park with freeride, technical and cross-country trails. Back downtown, see why Telluride is one of the top creative districts at the Sheridan Opera House with a concert or ski film. During the Gold Rush, the ornate theater was designed to be a colorful and airy venue for men who spent their days underground. Pop into the visitor center across the street for tips on exploring the area. You’ll also find plenty of excellent places for a meal — one of the reasons Bravo’s “Top Chef Colorado” recently filmed in this foodie-friendly enclave. New favorites The Tunnel and Wood Ear Whiskey Lounge & Noodle Bar join long-time hits Allred’s, La Marmotte, Alpino Vino and 221 South Oak. Still have steam left? Go gallery to gallery on the Telluride Art Walk (4). Local art shops stay open late and offer free refreshments on the first Thursday of most months, or you can pick up a self-guided map at most galleries. QUICK TIP Ridgway is homebase to the San Juan Hut System, which connects you to Colorado’s best mountain-biking trails, hiking trails and backcountry skiing/snowshoeing while staying in a network of 16 isolated mountain huts connected by singletrack trails and routes through amazing terrain. STAY & PLAY OPTIONS Cedaredge, Crawford, Delta (page 195), Hotchkiss (page 201), Montrose (page 202), Orchard City, Ouray (page 202), Paonia, Ridgway, Somerset, Telluride (page 204) WINTER FUN Telluride Ski Resort boasts mountains of fun, while downtown’s shops and cafes buzz with après skiers, shoppers and a festive atmosphere. The region’s San Juan Mountains lure folks out of town for world-class snowmobiling and snowshoeing. SUMMER AT SKI RESORTS Up the free gondola to Mountain Village, you’ll find the Telluride Adventure Center, with activities for kids that include a ropes course, Water Walkers Course, bungee tramp and more. There’s also the Telluride Golf Course, Kids Summer Camps and a mining sluice for modern-day goldpanners.
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