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DAY 1 It took thousands of years for the Gunnison River to carve out the area’s most identifiable feature — the 48-mile-long Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (1) near Montrose. Start at the Elk Creek Visitor Center, located on Blue Mesa Reservoir, Colorado’s largest body of water. Winds captured by flat-topped buttes make for prime sailing conditions. Anglers, too, will find deep water filled with kokanee salmon and mackinaw trout. And boaters freely roam more than 41,000 acres of lake. The Morrow Point Boat Tour is well worth the 232 steps down to the boat landing. Float on the 40-foot pontoon to the foot of precipitous 1,000-foot cliffs. Landlubbers can stick to the four-mile Curecanti Creek Trail, which passes through forests as it drops 800 feet below the canyon’s rim. Visit the park itself: The astonishingly steep walls of the canyon rise more than 2,000 vertical feet from the river. The cliffs expose 2-billion-year-old black metamorphic rock and are so sheer that hiking into the canyon is an ambitious undertaking. Instead, take a relatively flat walk from the South Rim Visitor Center. Peer across the chasm to Colorado’s tallest cliff, Painted Wall — you’ll know it by the white gashes through the otherwise pitch-black stone. The park is also an International Dark-Sky Park, with stargazing ops that will blow you away year-round but are especially vivid in the winter. Montrose is a gateway to biking, hiking, rafting, hunting and fishing. As a basecamp for exploring the area, you’ll be charmed by the Old West feel yet surprised by modern eateries and shops. Visit the Water Sports Park on the Uncompahgre River for kayaking, tubing and swimming. West of Montrose, explore the Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area’s 200,000 acres of red-rock canyon country or the Buzzard Gulch Trail System. In town, the newly expanded Ute Indian Museum connects the past with contemporary Ute life and culture. DAY 2 Nicknamed the “Switzerland of America,” Ouray sits in a narrow valley with the towering San Juan Mountains on three sides — one reason it’s considered ground zero for Jeep touring. An extensive and incredibly scenic network of old mining roads is another. Many of the town’s original Victorian structures have been lovingly restored to retain the town’s original charm. Check out nearby Ridgway Area Trails’ 40 miles of mountain-bike and hiking trails. Or for something more intense, the epic Old Twin Peaks Trail takes you to a 360-degree overlook. Ouray’s Western Slope Rides has a handy adventure shuttle that will get you to a hiking trailhead, backcountry mountain biking, winter ice-climbing expeditions and more. Stop first to pick up picnic provisions at the locally focused Ouray Meat & Cheese Market. Afterward, enjoy a truly restorative experience in the enormous Ouray Hot Springs Pool (2), which holds more than a million gallons of naturally heated, crystal-clear mineral water — the perfect end to a day of skiing, ice climbing, hiking or mountain biking. Ouray is also a stop along the Colorado Spirits Trail and SW Colorado Crafted Beverages Tour, so keep an eye out for locally distilled spirits and brews. Stop at True Grit Cafe in Ridgway, built to honor the original “True Grit” movie starring John Wayne, which was filmed here in 1969. Ridgway is also a Certified Colorado Creative District and a stop along the Colorado Creative Corridor, home to artisans, art fests, photo studios, fiber-arts makers, galleries, concerts in the park and the Sherbino Theater. The town is a jumping-off point to splendid views of Mount Sneffels (3) and the Dallas Divide — one of our most photographed alpine scenes. Detour to Orvis Hot Springs’ pools and take in dramatic views of the San Juans. Or take a peek at the Ridgway Railroad Museum, a historical campus with a new steam-engine railroad and trips on a growing stretch of tracks. DAY 3 It’s easy to fall head over heels for Telluride’s pristine Victorian homes and stunningly beautiful box canyon. But jaw-dropping views are just the beginning of what this outdoors and culture hot spot has to offer. Millennia after the Ute Indians settled in the craggy San Juan Mountains, prospectors struck gold and silver in what is present-day Telluride. By 1896, the town had 10,000 residents and its very own hospital — now the beautifully renovated Telluride Historical Museum. Start here for an overview of Telluride’s evolution from gritty mining town to 1970s hippie haven to ski mecca. Then mosey the streets to vintage Victorians and brownstones. Twelve blocks along Colorado Avenue comprise a National Historic Landmark District, including the site where notorious outlaw Butch Cassidy robbed his first bank in 1889. Telluride can truly celebrate its uniqueness, where all shops, restaurants and hotels are independently owned and Colorado minded. And there’s no need for a car in Telluride — between the gondola and Galloping Goose bus in town, getting around is a (free) snap! Pick up the serene River Trail, which turns into the Idarado Legacy Trail at the town park. In the summer, the park bustles with music and cultural festivals. From here, take the easy 2.5-mile path until you reach the base of Bridal Veil Falls — Colorado’s highest free-falling waterfall. For a hidden gem, seek out Little Hawaii, a somewhat secret hike off Bear Creek Falls trail. This spot along the river is formed by a giant rock wall with water cascading down into a tranquil pool. Ask a local for specifics on getting there. Or get a bird’s-eye view of the densely forested San Miguel River Valley during a ride on the gondola, which leaves from downtown on a 13-minute journey to Mountain Village. Back downtown, find out why Telluride is one of the state’s top creative districts at the Sheridan Opera House (4), the perfect place to take in a rock concert or ski film. Built during the Gold Rush heyday, the ornate theater was designed to be colorful and airy — a welcome change for men who spent their days underground. Pop into the visitors center across the street for guidance on exploring the area. You’ll also find plenty of excellent places for a meal — one of the reasons Bravo’s “Top Chef Colorado” recently filmed several episodes in this foodie-friendly enclave. New favorites The Tunnel and Wood Ear Whiskey Lounge & Noodle Bar join long-time hits Allred’s, La Marmotte, Alpino Vino and 221 South Oak. Still have steam left? Go gallery to gallery on the Telluride Art Walk (5). Local art shops stay open late and offer free refreshments on the first Thursday of every month except April, May, November and December. WINTER FUN Telluride Ski Resort boasts mountains of fun, while downtown’s shops and cafes buzz with après skiers, shoppers and a festive atmosphere. The region’s San Juan Mountains lure folks out of town for world-class snowmobiling and snowshoeing. SUMMER AT SKI RESORTS Up the free gondola to Mountain Village, you’ll find the Telluride Adventure Center, with activities for kids that include a ropes course, Water Walkers Course, bungee tramp and more. There’s also the Telluride Golf Course, Eco Kids Summer Camps and a mining sluice for modern-day goldpanners. STAY & PLAY OPTIONS Cedaredge, Crawford, Delta (page 195), Hotchkiss, Montrose (page 202), Orchard City, Ouray (page 202), Paonia, Ridgway (page 203), Somerset, Telluride (page 205) QUICK TIP Ridgway is homebase to the San Juan Hut System, which connects you to Colorado’s best mountain-biking trails, hiking trails and backcountry skiing/snowshoeing while staying in a network of 16 isolated mountain huts connected by singletrack trails and routes through amazing terrain.
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