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DAY 1 It took thousands of years for the Gunnison River to carve out the area’s most identifiable feature — the 48-mile-long Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (2) near Montrose. Start at the Elk Creek Visitor Center, located on Blue Mesa Reservoir (3), Colorado’s largest body of water. Winds captured by flat-topped buttes make for prime sailing conditions. Anglers, too, will find deep water filled with kokanee salmon and mackinaw trout. And boaters freely roam more than 41,000 acres of lake. The Morrow Point Boat Tour is well worth the 232 steps down to the boat landing. Float on the 40-foot pontoon to the foot of precipitous 1,000-foot cliffs. Landlubbers can stick to the four-mile Curecanti Creek Trail, which passes through forests as it drops 800 feet below the canyon’s rim. In the afternoon, visit the park itself. The astonishingly steep walls of the canyon rise more than 2,000 vertical feet from the river. The cliffs expose 2-billion-year-old black metamorphic rock and are so sheer that hiking into the canyon is an ambitious undertaking. Instead, take a relatively flat walk from the South Rim Visitor Center. Peer across the chasm to Colorado’s tallest cliff, Painted Wall — you’ll know it by the white gashes through the otherwise pitch-black stone. The park is also an International Dark Sky Park, with stargazing ops that will blow you away year-round but are especially vivid in the winter. Montrose is a gateway to biking, hiking, rafting, hunting and fishing. As a basecamp for exploring the area, you’ll be charmed by the Old West feel yet surprised by modern eateries and shops. Visit the Water Sports Park on the Uncompahgre River for kayaking, tubing and swimming. West of Montrose, explore the Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area’s 200,000 acres of red-rock canyon country or the Buzzard Gulch Trail System. In town, the newly expanded Ute Indian Museum (1) connects the past with contemporary Ute life and culture. DAY 2 Nicknamed the “Switzerland of America,” Ouray sits in a narrow valley with the towering San Juan Mountains on three sides — one reason it’s considered ground zero for Jeep touring. An extensive and incredibly scenic network of old mining roads is another. Many of the town’s original Victorian structures have been lovingly restored to retain the town’s original charm. Ouray Mule & Carriage Co. can give you a carriage tour along with tall tales of the mining era. Check out nearby Ridgway Area Trails’ 40 miles of mountain-bike and hiking trails. Or for something more intense, the epic Old Twin Peaks Trail takes you to a 360- degree overlook. Ouray’s Western Slope Rides has a handy new adventure shuttle that will get you to a hiking trailhead, backcountry mountain biking, winter ice-climbing expeditions and more. Afterward, enjoy a truly restorative experience in the enormous, 90-year-old, recently renovated Ouray Hot Springs Pool, which holds more than a million gallons of naturally heated, crystal-clear mineral water. Its warmth makes a perfect end to a day of skiing or ice climbing in the winter, or a day of shopping, hiking and mountain biking in the summer. Stop at True Grit Cafe in Ridgway, built to honor the original “True Grit” movie starring John Wayne, which was filmed here in 1969. Ridgway is also a Certified Colorado Creative District, home to artisans, art fests, galleries and the newly restored Sherbino Theater. Ridgway is a jumping-off point to splendid views of Mount Sneffels (7) and the Dallas Divide — one of our most photographed alpine scenes. Detour to Orvis Hot Springs’ swimsuit-optional pools and take in dramatic views of the San Juans. DAY 3 It’s easy to fall head over heels for Telluride’s pristine Victorian homes and stunningly beautiful box canyon. But jaw-dropping views are just the beginning of what this outdoors and culture hot spot has to offer. Millennia after the Ute Indians settled in the craggy San Juan Mountains, prospectors struck gold and silver in what is present-day Telluride. By 1896, the town had 10,000 residents and its very own hospital — now the beautifully renovated Telluride Historical Museum. Start here for an overview of Telluride’s evolution from gritty mining town to 1970s hippie haven to ski mecca. Then mosey the tree-shaded streets to vintage Victorians and brownstones. Twelve blocks along Colorado Avenue comprise a National Historic Landmark District, including the site where notorious outlaw Butch Cassidy robbed his first bank in 1889. Telluride can truly celebrate its uniqueness, where all shops, restaurants and hotels are independently owned and Colorado minded. And there’s no need for a car in Telluride — between the gondola and Galloping Goose bus in town, getting around is a (free) snap! Pick up the serene River Trail, which turns into the Idarado Legacy Trail at the town park. In the summer, the park bustles with music and cultural festivals. From here, take the easy 2.5-mile path, lined with placards about the gold under your feet, until you reach the base of Bridal Veil Falls (6) — Colorado’s highest free-falling waterfall. Intrepid hikers can climb the switchbacks to the top of the 365-foot falls for access to additional trails in the Bridal Veil Creek Basin. Or get a bird’s-eye view of the densely forested San Miguel River Valley during a ride on the gondola (4), which leaves from downtown on a 13-minute journey to Mountain Village. This newer, separate town is a jumping-off point for more hikes, mountain-bike trails and rock climbing. You’ll also find the Telluride Adventure Center, with activities for kids that include a ropes course, Water Walkers Course, bungee trampoline and more. Back downtown, find out why Telluride is one of the state’s top creative districts at the Sheridan Opera House (5), the perfect place to take in a rock concert or ski film. Built during the Gold Rush heyday, the ornate theater was designed to be colorful and airy — a welcome change for men who spent their days underground. Pop into the new Visitors Center across the street for guidance on exploring the area. Still have steam left? Go gallery to gallery on the Telluride Art Walk. Local art shops stay open late and offer free refreshments on the first Thursday of every month except April, May, November and December. WINTER FUN Telluride Ski Resort boasts mountains of fun, while downtown’s shops and cafes buzz with après skiers, shoppers and a festive atmosphere. Telluride’s airport recently resumed service to Denver, making it easier than ever to get there. The region’s San Juan Mountains lure folks out of town for world-class snowmobiling and snowshoeing. SIDETRIPS North of Montrose, the towns of Cedaredge, Crawford, Delta, Hotchkiss, Orchard City and Paonia are a growing organic-food and wine region with winery and farm tours, wine tastings and farm dinners. The West Elks Wine Trail meanders past nine wineries throughout the area — keep an eye out for spots to buy fresh, organic fruit and veggies. Paonia, Hotchkiss and Crawford are a Certified Colorado Creative District, where artists’ studios, musicians, writers and other creative folk mix among the mesas. For active diversions, Sweitzer Lake State Park near Delta is a relaxing place for boating and birdwatching, as are Paonia and Crawford state parks. Gunnison Gorge National Conservation Area is popular with hikers, backpackers and trout fishers on Gold Medal waters. Delta County has a few little-known attractions that are worth adding to your list: Three new dinosaur-tracksite discoveries in the Escalante and Gunnison Gorge national conservation areas and the Uncompahgre Plateau, the challenging Delta Drop Off mountain- bike trail and other trails (namely the Flowing Park Trail, Sidewinder, Smith Mountain and Jumbo Mountain), the charming Cirque Cyclery combo juice bar/bike repair/bike rental (including e-bikes)/boutique all in one, and a handful of new wineries and cideries. STAY & PLAY OPTIONS Cedaredge, Crawford (page 193), Delta (page 193), Hotchkiss, Montrose (page 202), Orchard City, Ouray (page 202), Paonia (page 202), Ridgway (page 203), Somerset (page 204), Telluride (page 205) QUICK TIP Getting to this part of the state is easier than ever. Montrose and Telluride have daily flights from Denver year-round, and Montrose also has flights from Dallas year-round and seasonally from Phoenix, Chicago, Los Angeles, New York, Atlanta, Charlotte, San Francisco, Salt Lake City and Houston.
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